Let’s be honest. When you think of Greece, your mind might jump to the famous blue domes of Santorini or the old ruins of Athens. But what if I told you there’s a place that really shows the heart of Greece without the big crowds? A spot where Venetian buildings mix with Ottoman history, where you smell the ocean along with blooming bougainvillea, and where every cobblestone street has a story.
Welcome to Nafplio
Often called the most romantic city in Greece, this town in the Peloponnese was actually the first capital of the modern Greek state. It’s a place that doesn’t just deserve a visit – it deserves to be experienced. After walking through its streets and climbing its forts, I’ve put together everything you need to have an amazing trip. This is your complete guide to Nafplio.
A walk through living history
To understand Nafplio, you need to understand its different layers. The moment you step into the Old Town, you feel it. The buildings show a mix of past rulers – Venetian, Frankish, and Ottoman. Start at Syntagma Square, the heart of the Old Town. It has elegant neoclassical buildings and lively cafes. It’s a perfect place to begin. Look for the old Venetian arsenal and the Archaeological Museum, which is in a beautiful building that has had many uses. From here, let yourself get lost. That’s the true magic of Nafplio. Wandering through narrow, winding streets like Athanasiou Diakou will lead you to hidden courtyards, cozy shops, and vibrant pink and purple bougainvillea hanging from balconies. The history isn’t only in museums – it’s all around you in the walls you touch.
The three crowns of Nafplio: Conquering the fortresses
Nafplio’s skyline has three fortresses, each with its own story. You haven’t really been to Nafplio until you’ve visited at least one.
Palamidi fortress:
This is the one you see in every picture, standing 216 meters above the town. The Venetians built it in the early 18th century, and it’s a great example of military design. Now, there’s a famous question: how many steps are there? Legend says 999, but the real number is around 857. The climb is a must-do, offering amazing views of the Argolic Gulf that make the tired legs totally worth it. Tip: Go early in the morning to escape the heat, or drive up if climbing isn’t your thing.
Acronafplia:
This is the oldest of the three fortresses, right above the Old Town. It’s often overlooked, which is a shame. You can walk up a path from the town, or take an elevator from around the Five Brothers bastion. The ruins aren’t as restored, but the views over the red-tiled roofs and the sea are some of the best. Parts of it are now a luxury hotel, making it a unique mix of ancient and modern.
Bourtzi castle:
This is the postcard-perfect, small fortress on a tiny island in the harbor. Built by the Venetians in the 15th century to protect the town from pirates and invaders, it’s now a great visual centerpiece. You can take a short water taxi from the port to visit the island, but most people like to admire it from the waterfront, especially at sunset when it looks like a silhouette in the orange sky.
Beyond the fortresses: What to see and do
While the fortresses are the highlights, Nafplio’s everyday life is just as interesting.
Stroll the arvanitia promenade:
This beautiful coastal path runs along the cliffs beneath Acronafplia and is a favorite for locals to jog or walk. The turquoise waters on one side and the dramatic rock face on the other create a magical atmosphere. The path ends at a small, pretty pebble beach.
Shop for local crafts:
Skip the usual souvenirs. Nafplio is famous for komboloi (worry beads). You’ll find great shops selling these unique, handmade pieces made from amber, ivory, and silver. It’s a perfect, authentic gift.
Indulge in the food scene:
Greek food is amazing wherever you go, but Nafplio has its own specialties. You must try:
– Orange pie: A local favorite that’s as tasty as it sounds.
– Fresh seafood: Enjoy grilled octopus and fried squid at a taverna by the water.
– Olive oil & figs: The Argolis region is well-known for both. Taste the difference.
Essential day trips from your Nafplio base
One of Nafplio’s best things is its location. It’s the perfect starting point for exploring some of the most important ancient sites in the world.
Ancient Epidaurus (30-min drive):
Home to the wonderfully preserved Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus. The acoustics are so good you can hear a coin drop from the farthest seat. If you can, visit during the summer festival for a performance.
Mycenae (20-min drive):
Step back into the world of Agamemnon and the Trojan War. Walk through the impressive Lion Gate, explore the royal tombs, and see the huge Treasury of Atreus.
Tolo beach (15-min drive):
For a classic beach day, head to the nearby resort town of Tolo. It has a long, sandy beach with calm, shallow waters, perfect for families.
Planning your stay: Useful advice
Getting there:
Nafplio is roughly a 2-hour drive from Athens International Airport. Renting a car is a great idea because it gives you the freedom to explore nearby places.
Getting around:
The Old Town is walkable and has no cars allowed. You’ll probably walk everywhere. For visiting the fortresses and going on day trips, a car is better.
Where to stay:
If you’re visiting for the first time, staying in the Old Town is a good choice. You’ll be close to all the restaurants and shops. If you want more modern comforts and sea views, the Pidalela area, which is just to the east of the main town, is a good option.
Best time to visit:
Spring (April to June) and Autumn (September to October) are the best times. The weather is warm and sunny, perfect for sightseeing, and there are fewer people around. Summer can be very hot, but the sea is a great way to cool off.
- Nafplio isn’t a place you just pass through on a list. It’s an experience. It’s the slow, enjoyable walk up old steps, the rich taste of Greek coffee in a sunny square, and the soft sound of waves against an old sea wall. It’s the Greece you’ve always imagined, waiting for you to find it.So, bring your walking shoes and a sense of curiosity. Nafplio is waiting for you.
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